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Skinceuticals to market A.G.E. Interrupter: Targeting the problem of skin glycation

November 22, 2008 – 12:21 am

It’s as if all my ranting and posts on A.G.E. are of no weight or significance until a big cosmetic brand giant comes along and injects marketing capital to the topic. As you already know from previous posts on A.G.E., since 1999 (that’s 9 years ago, ladies, a long enough time to grade your skin by to see if any of your skin care regimens are of any merit!) Advanced Glycation Endproducts contribute greatly to visible signs of aging such as sagging, cracking, and thinning skin (SKIN WHITENING FANATICS!! If you are reliant on skin-whiteners, you probably have THINNER THAN AVERAGE SKIN and so this article is important to you!!).

The new Skinceuticals “A.G.E. Interrupter” claims to “fight age at its root: glycation”, presenting itself as “a multi-faceted solution to combat intrinsic aging in mature skin,” “formulated for mature skin to prevent glycation and combat other natural processes involved in the complex phenomenon of intrinsic aging.”

To be honest, if MY BLOG HERE is too “geeky” and “nerdy” for the mass skin care market, I have no clue how the above marketing lingo could possibly penetrate consumer confusion and wonder. To continue sharing what’s printed on the jar, “CORRECT — Mature skin treatment to help reverse erosion of elasticity and firmness caused by advanced glycation end products (a.g.e.)” … easily stuff for medical lab nerds rather than glamorous beauty-fanatics.

Well hopefully Skin Geek is helping to bridge that gap. After all, it’s the health and luminosity of your skin that counts, rather than personality or style. To re-iterate on the importance of keeping A.G.E. at bay and preventing oxidative damage and glycation damage to youthful collagen structures in your body (yes, that’s your SKIN):

PROBLEM:

Intrinsic aging, caused by internal factors such as hormonal shifts and metabolic slowdown, contributes greatly to skin sagging, creping, thinning, and cracking. While glucose is a vital cellular fuel, glycation (the process through which sugar, glucose, is “used” in the body) causes unmetabolized glucose molecules to stick to collagen and elastin, leading to cross-linked fibers (ALERT! HERE IS THE REAL, PHYSICAL, DIRECT CAUSE OF ANY TYPE OF PERMANENT SKIN WRINKLING AND AGING!). This cross-linking forms chemical bridges between these proteins that result in advanced glycation end-products (A.G.E.). Glycated fibers become rigid, less elastic, and have reduced regenerative ability, which leads to damage such as laxity, cracking, and thinning skin.

In young skin, the dermal epidermal junction (E.E.J.) [Skin Geek translates: the connective area between different layers of skin that adds up to the tactile tightness and visible smoothness of young skin] has the appearance of a mountatin range that helps anchor th epidermis the to the dermis, forming a network of supportive collagen fibers. As skin ages, fibers in the D.E.J., primarily responsible for the appearance and texture of skin, glycate. In addition glycosaminoglycans (GAGs, an increasingly popular skin care ingredient similar to hyaluronic acid), the essential molecules responsible for holding water and modulating the extra-cellular space in the D.E.J., break down and lead to the appearance of aging skin.

Both glycation and GAG depletion lead to the degradation of the extra-cellular matrix and the flattening (thinning) of the dermal epidermal junction, resulting in sagging, creping, and severely wrinkled skin.

SOLUTION as touted by Skinceuticals for their A.G.E. Interrupter Correction Cream:

A.G.E. Interrupter is a multi-facted formulation that delivers THREE POWERFUL INGREDIENTS proven to prevent and correct the most visible signs of intrinsic aging in mature skin.

4% blueberry extract

Slows down the process of A.G.E. formation, preventing the rigidification (hardening and stiffening) of collagen and elastin fibers
Normalize MMP-1 to help protect non-glycated collagen types IV and VII from erosion
Stimulates procollagen I and III (extra-cellular matrix components)

30% Proxylane - unprecedented concentration

Stimulates GAG synthesis, restoring water and nutrient content in the D.E.J. to increase elasticity and thickness — as if the skin’s mattress has been re-inflated from the inside
Improves dermal-epidermal anchorage by remodeling tissue structure (keeps skin tightly connected and less prone to gravity’s pull)

0.2% Phytosphingosine

Helps protect the skin’s barrier to alleviate the discomfort associated with dry, aging skin
Facilitates the skin’s natural barrier repair process

Published Dermatologist Clinical Evaluation Show that:

by week 4 of application there is a 70% improvement in smoothness and by week 12 a 98% improvement
support tissues in the dermis and DEJ are synthesized and reconstituted, re-texturizing creping skin to restore a smooth, healthy complexion
by week 12 there is a 30% measurable improvement in wrinkles
plumped from within, wrinkles are diminished for a more youthful, taut appearance

RESULTS

A controlled clinical study reveals the efficacy of A.G.E. Interrupter on mature skin after three months of daily use. 63 women ranging in age from 45-61 were tested.

Patient 1 observations: improvement in wrinkles, laxity, creping and skin texture

Patient 2 observations: improvement in skin texture, fine lines, and wrinkles

Up to 100% of test subjects showed significant improvement in five distinct signs of aged skin and 94% showed improvement in overall appearance:

fine lines 95% improvement
deep wrinkles 90% improvement
firmness and elasticity 70% improvement
tactile roughness 100% improvement
overall appearance 88% improvement

Based on clinical data, A.G.E. Interrupter significantly improves the cracking, creping and thinning appearance of aged skin de to intrinsic processes such as glycation. A.G.E. Interrupter not only improves the appearance but also the discomfort associated with aging skin.

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Obviously you have seen similar pamphlets and brochures touting the same numbers.

What I would like you to note from this post isn’t your IRRATIONAL DESIRE TO RUN OUT AND GET THIS CREAM.

What I would like you to learn from this is again that GLYCATION IS THE DIRECT CAUSE OF WRINKLES, SAGGING, and AGING SKIN, and that the percentage of active ingredient for ANTI GLYCATION or glycation prevention, PROXYLANE, can be used at a concentration as high as 30%.

Once I figure out if proxylane really works or not I will update the results.

Cheers all.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti Wrinkle, Inflammation, Anti-Aging |

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Outstanding skin care discovery - Skin-Firming Fat

November 21, 2008 – 8:41 pm

“Skin-firming fat, a certain type of fat has shown anti-aging properties, a study in the Journal of Lipid Research reports. Scientists mixed a solution of compounds from a soybean-derived lipid called phosphatidyleserine (PS), applied it to subjects’ skin, and then exposed them to UV rays. The result: PS kept collagen proteins from breaking down and stalled the production of wrinkle-causing enzyme. Researchers think the compound fights inflammation. More clinical trials are slated.”

- Women’s Health, November 2008, page 24 Bulletin

Imagine my glee when my eyes found above passage. I’ve always been a fan of using FATs to prevent skin-aging, I’ve seen the difference a healthy layer of fat can do for a beautiful contour (keeps it smooth, tight, soft, sexy). I am THE firm believer that healthy levels of “fatness” is key to plump youthful skin. Obviously we’re not talking about overweightness, obesity, bad cholesterols, and other horrors America has so solidly associated with fats. We’re talking good fats, healthy fats, good cholesterols, anti-inflammatory fats, such as current king of “anti-aging oils” — Omega fatty acids (Omega 3, 6, and 9 found in flaxseed oil, walnut oil, wild salmon, EPA, DHA, krill, sardines, anchovies, seal oil, rainbow trout, etc), a potent anti-inflammatory under ideal clinical conditions and a staple of the vitamin industry.

Worshipers of Omega 3 are well aware of the cons and great inconveniences of this nutrient. The much-merited essential fatty acid is difficult to maximize “active health benefits” from. Extremely sensitive to light and heat, complicated in refinery process, and difficult to upkeep in freshness, and on top of that susceptible to each person’s individual digestive capabilities, omega-3s and even 6, 9s are finicky in in quality and performance, requiring rigorous daily intake in high dosages over long periods of time to even be marginally effective.

Whereas it looks like this soybean derived PS is much more promising in immediate anti-inflammatory and UV protective qualities. Plus, you can apply it topically… always a big plus.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients as Supplements + Foods, Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti Wrinkle, Anti-Aging |

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Downtime: Calm Skin Gets You Better Results for Skin Whitening

November 12, 2008 – 5:19 am

Effective, aggressive whitening regimens are VERY addictive and it is very easy to continue applying “miracle agents” even when you start peeling and getting redness. It’s totally understandable and happens more often than you think.

Part of us, perhaps subconsciously, always get the feeling, “well at least it’s reacting, at least it’s changing… something good has got to come out of this!! Especially after ALL THOSE CREAMS THAT DON’T WORK!”

Well, I urge caution. I’m in the same boat! I’m not condescending anyone from being overly attached to their new serum. Sometimes I will give myself aggressive chemical peels against doctor’s advice just because I’m so sick of mild regimens that don’t work and I want to see the “bad” parts of my skin peel away for at least psychological satisfaction. It’s just a girl’s nature! We want to be beautiful, we want our skin to look a certain way, and we’ll do anything to get “there”!

While obsessing over your skin is a proud diva’s natural habit, I strongly urge beauty fanatics to ALWAYS STOP applying whitening agents if you’re experiencing panic, discomfort, abnormal redness, and disconcerting peeling. Whitening agents, especially ones that are effective, are the most potent active ingredients in all of skin care products available on the consumer market and they have a tendency to THIN THE SKIN DRAMATICALLY, making your skin extremely sensitive and vulnerable.

Remember that the skin is a protective organ. It’s not supposed to be thin, frail, nor vulnerable. It’s supposed to callus where it need be, roughen where it need be, and fight germs and toxins by “turning red” or “growing a zit”. It’s supposed to get tanned and dark when exposed to UV so that it can do its job of protecting the INSIDE of you from UV irradiation.

But to have it looking perfect, looking smooth, looking porcelain… there’s a price to be paid. You’re turning a warrior into a princess.

So… don’t treat your skin like a soldier anymore. Treat it like a princess. Give it a break periodically.

The following are a list of calming, nourishing, softening ingredients that you can use between agressive chemical-treatment phases or use until your skin returns to normal and is ready for the next “bootcamp treatment”.

CoEnzyme Q10 or CoQ10 (available under Nivea, RoC, SkinEternal, and other drugstore or healthfood store brands. Any simple cream will do, such as Gold Bond Ultimate Restoring Skin Theraphy Lotion with CoQ10)
Chamomile and Alpha Bisabolol (Camocare is the best brand for this, but again, a simple cream will do such as St. Ive’s Swiss Formula Aloe and Chamomile Body Lotion)
Vitamin E and Tocotrienols (most skin creams at any drugstore, Target, Whole Foods, etc contain Vitamin E. For Tocotrienols, a potent form of Vitamin E, look harder amongst the ingredient labels.)

When in doubt, you can either email me for personal consultation (see Consult page) or stick with natural organic skin care brands like Burt’s Bees, Rachel Perry, Dr. Hauschka, and many others that tout wholesome, nutritious, nourishing ingredients. While these products aren’t as “active”, it will help your skin by “prepping” and “calming” it for the next “active regimen” you’re about to experiement with, as well as minimize any long term damage that could be caused by active synthetic (man-made, more potent) chemical ingredients.

Skin Geek |

Brightening Lightening Skin Whitening, Uncategorized |

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Comic Art: Antiaging Therapy for My Right Brain

November 8, 2008 – 4:01 am

Cartoons by Fitz!

Skin Geek |

Uncategorized |

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Asia’s Cosmetic Surgery Epidemic - Mastering the Art of Beauty Goes Overboard

April 8, 2008 – 6:02 pm

As I rummage through more of my old writing in the old SkinGeek.com database (read basement storage), I come across something amazing that I really want to share with you. It might be a little out of date, but, the entertainment value is, nevertheless, unfaltering.

In fact, this article helps shed some light on why I’m so obsessed with researching Skin Whitening ingredients, applying nano-technologies, and trying out non-invasive medical equipments to enhance the anti-aging, skin-perfecting regimen. Only a couple of years ago Skin Whitening was a predominantly Asian trend. But now, that epidemic has typhooned into North American markets and is taking everything from Sephora to Walgreens by the storm. Now, Skin Whitening is only ONE topic in anti-aging beauty. There sre so many other ones covered by this TIME magazine article I’ve referenced below.

My deeply rooted impression of Asian (in Asia) women’s obsession with beauty and youth cannot be expressed more accurately nor with more piercing words than those of this Time Asia reporter:

http://www.time.com/time/asia/covers/1101020805/story.html

The article is worth your time, so if you’re not in the habit of clicking away to read stuff, which is perfectly okay given the anarchic nature of online links nowadays, you should definitely click the above link just this once, to read .

What I have come across this year (2004) with only a 4 month stay in Taiwan can be summarized as follows:

miraculous meetings and new contacts with German, Chinese, and Japanese suppliers of epidermal growth factor, fibroblast growth factor, thymosin, nerve growth factors, active placental hormones and enzymes
finding out about Korean multimillionaires who have made their fortunes off “plastic surgery travel agency/tour guide” businesses
parallel learning of the ripe culture of tourgroups of East Asian women flying out to Japan to obtain regular active placental injections
parallel learning of how Mainland Chinese upper society, especially politicians such as Deng Xiao Ping, live gaspingly long and ripe lives by having begun using technology with growth hormones, natural active thymosin, and other stem-cell, fetal-related substances since at least 10 years ago
finding out about the details, the permeation, and ever-growing popularity of leg-extension surgeries (details can be summarized here: http://www.time.com/time/asia/news/magazine/0,9754,187654,00.html )
being overwhelmed by a million cosmetics brands from all over the world that floods the Taiwanese beauty markets
constantly bombarded with images of gorgeous women, young or mature, on the streets, in the offices, on TV, and everywhere else; and exclaiming at the good fortune of Asian, particularly Taiwanese men, to have such abundance of extremely brainwashed women who perfect their looks relentlessly to win favor or gawking from men.
witnessing a strange spa machine/equipment that miraculously, albeit temporarily, shrinks squarish, round, or chubby faces and jaws to give a evidently thinner, less puffy, more refined facial contour.
distraught over the market permeation of all sorts of “seemingly advanced” (translation: not-Igia-like) infrared, light-energy, magnetic energy, oscillating electromagnetic waves gadgets that have beauty enhancing or youth-accentuating properties
doing import export transactions for vendors at trade shows who sell AMERICAN MADE DENTAL EQUIPMENT (Ultrasound-based) to spas as “advanced beauty enhancing medical grade equipment)

All of the above experiences have far surpassed the type of anti-senesis, beauty-seeking research I’ve always been familiar with in my 8 years of amateur study in the US: good old nutritional supplements, the latest antioxidants, the latest synergistic formulas, the latest ingredients or laser technologies, what old people should do to stay healthy and vibrant, or even Dr. Perricone’s “Wrinkle Cure” or any other celebrity shows on plastic surgery and beauty.

People, especially women… are crazy in that part of the world. Honestly. In fact, my current 40yr-old boss, one of the countless VPs of the top home shopping media network in the Chinese-speaking world, an ex-flight attendant (historically in Asia, the physically finest women get to be flight attendants, sort of like beauty pageants) is strikingly gorgeous and I swear looks 15 yrs younger than her age. In fact, I cannot remove my eyes from her ivory-carved neck whenever I talk to her… she has ZERO lines on her neck. Even I have a liney-neck. I mean.. people *must* be crazy to be able to keep themselves in such top-quality condition after 4 decades of biological use.

I need to write an article just on necks after having met hers.

That Ivory-carved, Porcelain-molded, pearl-powdery, line-free, impeccably young neck. I wonder how she can turn her head sometimes!! Sigh.

Skin Geek |

Beauty Inventions, Uncategorized |

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Alpha Arbutin - The Alpha Skin Whitening Agent that Works Fast

April 8, 2008 – 7:13 am

Alpha Arbutin Works Better than Hydroquinone?

Alpa Arbutin’s manufacturers proclaim that the active, pure substance works on removing “liver spots”, brightening skin color, and inhibiting tanning (even after UV sun exposure) and darkening of the skin BETTER than d-kojic acid and hydroquinone — the medicine dermatologists prescribe and the de facto OTC go-to for ridding of age spots. See the Manufacturer’s Alpha Arbutin Fact Sheet for an excellent overview of the mechanisms of pigment related skin problems.

Alpha Arbutin as the ALPHA (a-glucosidic ) inhibits the activity of tyrosinase MUCH more effectively than its beta version. The alpha form offers higher stability and efficacy, leading to a skin lightening active that acts faster and more efficiently leading to much more pronounced diminishing of liver spots (age spots), and an obvious reduction in the degree of skin tanning after UV exposure.

The most special version of Alpha Arbutin I’ve seen is perhaps that made by Tyrostat. Tyrostat claims its skin-lightening ingredients, in particular its version of Alpha Arbutin, is derived from plants that are native to the northern Canadian prairie region. The most significant “plant” out of these is the Rumex, of course in such glamorous marketing far removed from its traditional role as a weed to gardeners, the Dockweed.

Traditionally the plant is used more to stop the sting in nettles (it’s a proven folk remedy for nettle stings and rashes), as an astringent, or as a salad ingredient. However, Tyrostat apparently found a new use, bringing Rumex extract’s high concentration of Alpha Arbutin to the table and promoting its capability in inhibiting the production of the enzyme tyrosinase, leading to clearer complexion and a reduction in skin pigmentation, by limiting both melanin production (tan) and skin reddening (erythema).

Now this SECOND BENEFIT: LIMITING SKIN REDDENING KNOWN IN DOCTOR LANGUAGE AS ERYTHEMA, is something that very few lightening ingredients claim to do. Perhaps Tyrostat wasn’t referencing the ALPHA ARBUTIN’s anti-erythemic functions,but something else present in Rumex Occidentalis extracts.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Brightening Lightening Skin Whitening, UV Damage Sun Protection |

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Elhibin the Guardian of Elastin: Anti-Aging Action of Soy Proteins by MMP Inhibition

April 8, 2008 – 6:34 am

Elhibin the Guardian of Elastin: Anti-Aging Action of Soy Proteins by MMP Inhibition

Elhibin®, predominantly used for skin tightening and firming, [yess!! Another made up, fancy chemical name!] is a soy extract protein peptide that inhibits skin enzymes (human leukocyte, elastase and tryptase) from being released unnecessarily, such as when skin is exposed to damaging environmental factors like UV, pollutants and free radicals. See manufacturer’s Elhibin Fact Sheets. In simple terms Elhibin protects your elastin cushion under the skin, keeping it firm and resilient, and there’s also an extra bonus goodie of improving skin hydration by strengthening the elastin structure in the skin.

MMPs and enzymes like human leukocyte, elastase and tryptase are potentially damaging enzymes produced by irritated fibroblasts and other skin cells target elastin structures and dissolve them, thus they can damage skin and cause loss of elasticity overtime when they are hyperactive and unconstrained. Elhibin as a specific, patented soy peptide has been clinically shown to

inhibit elastic fiber breakdown in the skin
soothes skin by mild anti-irritant properties
is a moderately good antioxidant
improve firmness with regular application by chemical action that normalizes the skin’s enzyme/inhibitor balance.

Use this active ingredient at a concentration of 3%-7% for a good anti-aging, skin-firming and toning effect. Elhibin as one of the peptides and MMP inhibitors is unique and worth its own place in a formula because it specifically prevents elastin break down rather than collagen, which most other peptide based active ingredients are targeted and designed to do. To me, collagen is the “plumper” while elastin is the “bounciness enhancer”. I believe that elastin is a bigger factor in the overall firmness and elasticity of skin, thus Elhibin is a great, and necessary complimenting active that works nicely with a collagen-enhacing regimen that includes collagen-MMP inhibitors like Colhibin and Matrixyl.

To put it in a no brainer way, Elhibin takes care of that “bouncy, sexy firmness” or “density” and Colhibin / Matrixyl / Argeline take care of the “Plumpness and supple softness” of your face, and both are important qualities to have in a young, attractive face that’s capable of commanding radiant, animated expressions… so don’t overlook Elhibin!

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti Wrinkle, Contouring Lifting Shaping Sculpting, Anti-Aging |

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Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl): How it Really Works On Wrinkles… In the Labs

April 7, 2008 – 9:21 pm

Matrixyl, the current Prom Queen of anti-wrinkle ingredients, is found in almost every bottle of anti-aging potion I see on shelves everywhere. In fact, many popular “complexes” like Eyeliss contain it. I’m guessing (haven’t garnered up the time to research in depth where this trend sprouted from) that the StriVectin (using cellulite cream as an anti wrinkle potion) craze permeating the market a couple of years ago gave rise to the dominance of peptides and in particular, Matrixyl palmitoyl pentapeptide-3.

Today, it is quite funny to see the product descriptions provided by vendors on how Matrixyl works. Even sales representatives and counter services can’t really put a finger on exactly how Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 works in making your skin more beautiful.

I dug up an excerpt from Olay about its Regenerist serum:

The Regeneration Collection includes a trio of Regenerist products, each infused with an exclusive Amino-Peptide Complex, [read Matrixyl] to regenerate your skin’s appearance without chemical peels, cosmetic surgery or laser.

Clinical tests have proved that Amino Peptides [Matrixyl, which is the only amino peptide listed on the ingredient label to Olay Regenerist] help regenerate damaged skin. Now Regenerist uses this technology to beautifully regenerate skin by renewing its outer layer, revealing newer skin.

The vendors make it sound like Matrixyl works similar to AHA or a retinoid, chemical peel, or lasers… all of which function by AGGRESSIVE EXFOLIATION (seek, destroy, and let the skin heal into its prettier self) rather than a direct improvement of collagen structures or fibroblast integrity. So… Olay describes the Matrixyl or the Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 they use as having the same “work habits” as our favorite incumbent anti-aging EXFOLIANTS. I am not the person to say whether this is wrong, but it is intriguing and somewhat funny to me because other scientific literature teach that peptides don’t really work by exfoliation or a literal “renewing”. Rather, it’s supposed to work at the cell level as a biochemical catalyst that stimulates and signals fibroblasts and other skin cells to produce higher quality and better quantities of structural components that make up soft, young, smooth skin.

I’ve used some products with Matrixyl on the label, quantity and concentration unknown, and they didn’t do anything for me back then. But I’m really wondering if they’ll do something for me now, at higher concentrations and in better formulations. I’m testing out a 0.05% Tretinoin (Retinoic-Acid, or Retin-A, the medicinal version of Retinol, another common anti-wrinkle ingredient) and my skin is NOT happy at the moment. Like any other skin-obsessive consumer, I’m hoping some of the star wrinkle-killers will do their magic on my face and perhaps calm my skin down from Tretinoin’s trampling massacre.

Below is a direct cut and paste from www.SmartSkinCare.com, one of my favorite consumer education sites on skin care. I think it gives a great introduction to the substance. See Skin Geek discussions below. (Oops, this is turning into classroom stuff… how fun!)

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl) is a new skin rejuvenation compound developed by the corporations Sederma SA and Proctor & Gamble. Lately, it has generated a lot of media buzz and has been included under the trademark Matrixyl in a variety of skin care formulas on the market. The proponents claim that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 is at least as effective against wrinkles as retinol but does not cause skin irritation, which is a common side-effect of retinoids.

So, is there any science under the hype? Chemically speaking, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Pal-KTTKS) is a relatively small molecule. It consists of five amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid to enhance oil solubility for the sake of better skin penetration. It is structurally related to the precursor of collagen type I (a.k.a. procollagen type I). Researchers found that when added to the culture of fibroblasts (the key skin cells), palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 stimulated the synthesis of the key constituents of the skin matrix: collagen, elastin and glucosamnoglycans. How exactly palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 did that remains unclear, although a number of theories exist.

Unfortunately, the ability to improve the productivity of skin cells in the test tube, does not always translate into an effective anti aging treatment. Less than one in ten promising test tube discoveries ever becomes an established therapy. Clinical studies of palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 do exist but all of them (to my knowledge as of the day of this writing) have been conducted or sponsored by the manufacturers (Sedema and Proctor & Gamble). This does not necessarily make the studies biased, but potential conflict of interests is always a red flag. Unfortunately, this situation is typical. Early studies of patented chemicals are almost always sponsored by manufacturers. It usually takes a long time before completely independent research is conducted.

So far, clinical data are encouraging. One study demonstrated that palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 was as effective as retinol in repairing sun-damaged skin but was devoid of side-effects. Most other studies showed at least some improvement in various objective and subjective measures of wrinkles. No side effects have been reported.

Unfortunately, the clinical data is still too skimpy to view palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 as a proven anti-wrinkle treatment at this time. So, should you wait? Or is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 worth a try today? There is no universal answer to this question. If your skin care budget is tight, you may not want to spend your hard earned cash on “perhaps-effective” products. On the other hand, if you have cash to burn and/or other alternatives didn’t work, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, with its good safety profile, may be worth a try. palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 may also be considered as a nonirritating fall back option for people who develop skin irritation in response to retinoids or alpha-hydroxy acids.

If you decide to try palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, keep in mind that its concentration in a product should be sufficiently high (e.g. matching the levels used in the clinical studies). There is a large price variation between different palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 products, although none are dirt-cheap. However, the price does not always reflect the concentration of the active ingredient. It may reflect prestige of the brand, advertising overhead, sophistication of packaging and so forth. Be wise. Make sure you are paying a fair price per until of the pentapeptide.

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Below is excerpt from http://www.SkinActives.com:

Pal-KTTKS is a synthetic pentapeptide derivative was designed to mimic a natural matrikine. Matrikines, small peptides formed when the dermis proteins are damaged and degraded, are cell messengers able to regulate the sequence of events required for skin repair and wound healing. They will induce synthesis and increase the activity of enzymes involved in healing, leading to increased synthesis of collagen and other skin molecules.

[SkinGeek Notes: 2 mL of ultra-concentrated palmitoyl pentapeptide in 8 oz. base is Strivectin’s concentration]

Further information: this is the the active ingredient in Strivectin™. The actual structure of the molecule is N2-(1-oxohexadecyl)-L-lysyl-L-threonyl-L-threonyl-L-lysyl- L-Serine, abbreviated as Pal-KTTKS (K for lysine, T for threonine, S for serine). Amino acids are the subunits that make up a protein. Amino acids can join each other in a peptide bond: two amino acids joined in a peptide bond constitute a dipeptide, three a tripeptide, a five a pentapeptide. A protein can be made up of just one or several polypeptides.

I believe they give a much more accurate and more convincing illustration of how Matrixyl works on removing or improving the appearance of wrinkles.

The bottom line? It’ll take patience to see a change in your skin, and to make sure there are effects, again concentration is key. I personally still adhere to my principal of… GET THE PURE ACTIVE STUFF and mix fresh doses everytime I apply. The only commercially prepared Matrixyl products I would purchase are those encapsulated with the most advanced nano liposome technologies available, something I cannot whip up just yet in my kitchen. Otherwise, making highly concentrated DIY anti-wrinkle creams would be the best way to go. Don’t forget there are other peptides that can help, perhaps with less marketing prowess but nevertheless also helps in our quest for eternally youthful skin. Some peptides to look out for include: Argireline, Tripeptide, Matrixyl-3000 AGH-1.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti Wrinkle, Anti-Aging |

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Resveratrol - Anti-Aging Polyphenol from Red Wine… OR Mysterious Asian “Weed”

April 5, 2008 – 7:06 pm

Ever since the “Red Wine Does Your Health Good” frenzy overtaking the health food/gourmet industry, the active substance Resveratrol, responsible for red wine’s health benefits, has generated lukewarm, but definite, mainstream media interest similar to what Pycnogenol (Maritime pine bark extract) once harnessed.

Naturally, as Skin Geek I have been taking oral supplements of Resveratrol for a couple of years now, ever since its first commercial introduction at reasonable prices (check out Vitacost.com’s awesome Resveratrol products). I never figured out whether it “works” or not, (like the hundreds of other nutrients I’ve tried as anti-aging oral supplements over the past decade) as I am healthy and I still look very young for my age.

Several commercial skin care preparations contain Resveratrol but I never tried them. As usual, I got my own vial of pure Resveratrol for cosmetic formulation in my refrigerator. The deep purple red hue of Resveratrol makes it hard to incorporate into leave-on topical skin care. I use it in quick after-sun masks blended together with other dark-colored antioxidants and plant extracts. The deep, dark, and rich pigment of Resveratrol (natural antioxidants usually contain colorful pigments) is never seen in any commercial skin creams; no mystery that I never bought Resveratrol creams from stores, assuming the concentration of Resveratrol must be too low to have any tangible effects.

In general, it’s much more convenient taking Resveratrol in a pill rather than slathering it on my face, AND I’m still wondering if it has any transdermal properties. Here I will share with you what got me into this polyphenol-based phytochemical (plant-based) nutrient in the first place… and why it’s still in my vitamin repertoire.

Other than being a potent, wide-range free radical scavenging anti-oxidant (BONUS: Resveratrol DOES NOT induce MORE oxidation like Ascorbic acid/Vitamin C), Resveratrol has potent anti-viral, cancer preventive, radio-protective, and anti-fungal properties. As a natural substance, I feel that Resveratrol “works synergistically” and safely, unlikely to cause danger or overdose. When I suffered from “incurable acne”, I thought it was because I had unseen fungal, bacterial or yeast infections that was lurking in my skin (yeah, I was really exhausting all possible explanations after experiencing the “nothing works” syndrome). The then outrageously high concentrations of airborn mold spores added to the paranoia. I sought out every natural anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-viral substance and binged nutraceuticals like a bulimic at a buffet.

Another reason I take it is because I love high fat, low carb diets in general, and the studies on Resveratrol was mostly focused on helping subjects stay healthy on a high fat diet, even with high levels of saturated, cooked fats. Again I do not know whether the Resveratrol helped with specific “problems” but taking more could only do good, and so I did, and still do.

Vitacost.com introduces Resveratrol as follows:

Resveratrol is produced by plants in response to injury or fungal infection. It also protects plants from UV radiation and other harmful substances. Resveratrol is believed to provide similar protective benefits for humans. Its antioxidant activity, or ability to neutralize free radicals (unstable molecules that attack healthy cells and damage membranes and DNA), may account for its cardioprotective [read heart-friendly] effects. Resveratrol appears to promote healthy blood composition and circulation, and may also have anti-inflammatory properties.

A recent landmark study from Harvard Medical School, published in the medical journal Nature, found that ultra-high doses of red wine extract with resveratrol allowed obese mice to eat a high fat diet and still live a long and healthy life¹. Researchers discovered that the liver and other systems in obese mice remained healthy and fat-related deaths dropped 31 percent for those taking a resveratrol supplement.

Vitacost also warns against being “careless” with Resveratrol supplements, since Resveratrol can break down over time and lose efficacy as a health promoting substance.

Global manufacturing sources reveal that the best bargain for Resveratrol today comes from China. Chinese manufactured Resveratrol is harvested from a traditional plant known as Hu-Zhang (”tiger cane”), aka Giant Knotweed or Japanese Knotweed, of which the extract has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years. I’m not quite sure whether there is such thing as “cholesterol” in ancient Chinese Medicine, but Vitacost.com claims that Hu-Zhang and Japanese Knotweed is commonly used in TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) to “promote healthy cholesterol“.

Other goodies that Resveratrol can deliver for you:

support healthier lower blood fat levels
offer anti-inflammatory benefits
antioxidant protection from free radical damage
phytoestrogen support
cardio-protectant properties
achieve an overall healthier cardiovascular system
support capillary strength and .

For medical jargon, keep reading. Or, just start popping this “rosy glow in a pill” and see where it takes you.

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Documented uses in traditional Chinese medicine date to the first century BC, and contemporary medical uses supported by clinical results include acute microbial infections or viral hepatitis, chemo- or radiation-induced leukocytopenia, atherosclerosis, and hyperlipidemia. Pharmacology: In animal experiments, huzhang has exhibited antitussive, antihistaminic, hypotensive, vasodilating, cytotoxic, and antioxidant properties, among others. Huzhang is also a concentrated source of resveratrol (3,5,4ýý-trihydroxy stilbene), an antioxidant phenol produced in response to fungi. Resveratrol has also shown antimutagenic activity in bioassays conducted on bacteria in vitro (umu and Ames tests). And, in a recent investigation conducted in vivo and in vitro, resveratrol displayed chemopreventive effects at three critical stages of carcinogenesis. Specifically, resveratrol was found to 1) induce phase II drug metabolizing enzymes (antiinitiation); 2) mediate anti-inflammatory effects and inhibit cyclooxygenase and hydro-peroxidase (antipromotion); and 3) induce human promyelocytic leukemia cell diferentiation (antiprogression). Resveratrol was also found to inhibit the development of preneoplastic lesions in vitro and tumorigenesis in vivo. Very recently, it was reported that Huzhang extract is one of the best active-oxygen scavengers for the prevention of skin aging induced by UV-irradiation and free radical. Experiments conducted in vivo indicate that resveratrol is a potent vasodilator and inhibitor of platelet aggregation. Recent work in dogs and humans indicate that other concentrated sources of resveratrol (i.e., red wine and grape juice) eliminate cyclic blood-flow reductions caused by platelet-mediated thrombosis. Active Compounds: Huzhang is characterized by anthraquinones and their glycosides, napthoquinone, 3,5,4ýý-trihydroxy stilbene (i.e., resveratrol), piceid, fallacinol, citreorosein, questin, questinol, protocatechuic acid, (+) catechin, 2,5-dimethyl-7- hydroxychromone, 7-hydroxy-4-methoxy-5-methylcoumarin, flavonols, polysaccharides, and condensed tannins. Regulatory Status: Under U.S. law, huzhang extract is regulated as a dietary supplement. As of this writing, no European governments had issued monographs or regulations for nutraceutical uses of huzhang. NOTE: The statements in this publication have not been evaluated by the FDA.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients as Supplements + Foods, Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti-Aging |

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Colhibin - Wrinkle-Proof Your Skin with Collagenase Inhibitors

April 4, 2008 – 6:03 pm

Colhibin - Protection Against Wrinkles From MMP Collagenase

Colhibin is a relatively new (or unknown) cosmetic active for PREVENTION OF WRINKLES manufactured by Latin American pharmaceutical PENTAPHARM. See manufacturer’s Colhibin Fact Sheet or keep reading for the layman’s version on it’s proclaimed magical abilities.

Colhibin is a rice-derived peptide, working on your anti-aging project by inhibiting the enzymes that break down skin integrity, causing wrinkles. These enzymes are referred to as a MMP (Matrix metallo Proteinase), making Colhibin a MMP inhibitor.

Studies show that Colhibin DIRECTLY BLOCKS THE ACTION OF MMP-1 and MMP-2, two dominant collagenase enzymes active in the human skin when skin is exposed to environmental (including UV and smoking, major triggers of MMP over-activity that leads to rapid and premature formation of wrinkles) or free radical irritation.

By blocking MMP-1 action, peptides like Colhibin and its relative Elhibin can block the formation of wrinkles much more effectively than antixoidants and anti-inflammatories alone. In other words, similar to the theoretical function of CARNOSINE, AMINOGUANIDINE, and ALT-711, Colhibin and Elhibin address a much stronger, much more direct cause of wrinkles and stops it in its track.

This is what we call collagenase-dependent skin aging (wrinkling) and this is what originally got me started in my fanatical quest for eternal youth. When collagenases like MMP enzymes start working, they break down collagen (wrongly labeling the collagen surround as defected, wounded or compromised and must be removed) and create microscopic “cracks” in the collagen mattress. Over time, these do not get “refilled or patched up” and what we have is a structural disaster that shows up over the years as deep wrinkles and sagging skin.

When I first learned (around 1999-2000… long time ago!) about MMPs and collagenase and how tobacco smoking and UV are sure to send MMPs on a collagen-eroding frenzy, I panicked and started looking for substances that will interfere with this chemical reaction. After a decade of hiding from the sun, and being hopeless fan and chain-addict of fancy Japanese cigarettes AND bearing all the guilt that comes with it, I am tired of “binding myself down” with all the “don’t do this”’s, drenching myself in the guilt and shame, and decide to free myself from the fear of public criticism. In fact, my poor lifestyle habits is probably what contributed to my being one of the biggest single consumers of neutraceuticals that I am personally aware of and I continue to find dozens of counter-active health potions that help me stay looking like a kid.

It’s really nice to see more cosmetic actives emerging that have potential to address aging issues relating to collagen damage. It might not REVERSE existing wrinkles that are too deep, however it definitely looks like a good “preventive care” item to have on the list.

Skin Geek |

Active Ingredients in Cosmetics & Skincare, Anti Wrinkle, Anti-Aging |

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